Contemporary

Stuffed Chicken Neck

Stuffed Chicken Neck

In my travels throughout Italy while I was interviewing 90-somethings for my first book Chewing the Fat, a recurrent theme was how nothing was wasted. Cores, pods, peels, - everything was repurposed.

As part of the interview, I asked each participant if they would give me a recipe which for them characterized typical foods they grew up with during the fascist era, foods that were a normal part of their culinary experience. Aida, a mezzadra, or sharecropper, from Gubbio in Umbria gave me her recipe for stuffed chicken neck. It was a dish that combined old bread and the less desirable bits of a chicken to create something that was considered quite a treat.